I'm going to be honest. When I first saw this collection I couldn't help but immediately compare it to Michael Van Der Ham's collection the previous day. The contrasting, pieced together fabrics seemed familiar, however after seeing the 2 shows, Pilotto's collection perhaps seemed more defined and ultimately more wearable.
I admire both designers- they both of them seem to be paving the way for a new type of design, although Van Der Ham has been practicing this 'pieced together' look since his final collection at CSM.
However, I think what gave Pilotto's collection the edge for me was the more sportswear, wearability of the pieces. You could imagine yourself wearing any one of the pieces. The modern colour palette was beautiful- like the dress above- the idea of combining a very on-trend 70's earthy brown with an stand out hue of egg-shell blue.
Prints were still present, I mean what would a Peter Pilotto be like without them? They were delicate patterns that helped strengthen their ideas of speed and movement beneath more solid fabrics and colours.
There are 'harder edged' pieces, not my favorite, but gave the collection a more structured feel for Spring. The more form-fitting, top-stitched sports fabrics confirmed the influence of 'Californian Retro Rock Climbers'.
Although I loved the collection the knitwear was not really that coherent with the rest. On the press release it mentioned the inspirational muscle illustrations which had been translated into the ribbed knits. However, there was just something too body-con about the pieces with high necks. I can't quite explain why I took a dislike to them.....
This is probably my favorite look from the collection- i love the panelling- the fact that you have clean, fluid areas that are then juxtaposed with a more folded/draped panel around the neckline. The cut and consideration of where panels are placed are perfect.
Laura
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All photographs by Laura @ SpoonfedStyle
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