Since I was lucky enough to attend the Fashion East AW2010 show I have noticed Michael Van Der Ham. Out of the 3 designers he stood out by a mile. His combination of fabrics, print and colour was something new and exciting. His pieces were carefully considered and put together, never compromising the movement and femininity of the garment. This was no exception in his first solo show yesterday.
People call his technique 'collage'- his clothes are more like specialist surrealist art pieces for collectors.
His inspiration came from the referencing of surreal costumes by Adrian (He designed Dorothy's ruby slippers!), of the MGM era of film- maybe something like below??
Van Der Ham sources fabrics from
every era and continent- now he has added in his own-created fabrications, such as the beautiful abstract velvet devore which he used in simple shirts. Florals are replaced by luxury fabric contrasts such as velvet and crystal covered surfaces.
The prints are all abstract brushstrokes like the artist Elsa Schiaparelli- a surrealist designer that used similar techniques in her prints in the late 20's and 30's.
This season he pushed the silhouettes of the collection combining short layers of one side and long chiffon capes on the other to create this imbalance- another surrealist influence I would guess. There were simpler pieces, like tailored trousers with just a hint of contrasting fabrics proving that he has more of a range as a designer.
Michael Van Der Ham has to be one of my favorite new designers by far.
Laura
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All photographs by Laura @ Spoonfedstyle
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