Ann Demeulemeester- the silent movie.....
'Graphic Abstraction' is what Demeulemeester calls it.....
My favorite aspect of the collection was the 'print-on-print- idea. Abstract geometric prints were asymmetrically but and layered upon by more print, then stitched, then printed again..... The prints informed the panelling and silhouette.
This collection was centered around the idea of protection- obvious from the breastplates and thick, quilted funnel collars. Not really identifiable as a Spring/Summer collection, Demeulemeester's collection was less about trend and more towards concept. Multi-layered clothes cocooned the body but were left open at points, suggesting vulnerability and giving a slightly more feminine edge.
Balenciaga- 'I didn't want clones......'
I'm not going to lie, the first half of the collection didn't do anything for me. Patent dogstooth fabric is never going to excite me! But the second part of the collection became far more interesting. Following the idea of protection, Ghesquire's theme of 'Teddy boy meets punk' gave us more minimalist pieces that, like Demeulemeester, cocooned the body.
A.F. Vandevorst- 'the Crusades of fashion......'
Protection, but taking more inspiration from the past- Vandevorst's collection was consisted of a refined chain mail-like fabric. I preferred the looks that mixed the chain mail with the faded woven fabrics.
Taking the chain mail idea- but in a loose knit construction. It's also another example of the 'pieced together' trend that has been ever-present at all the fashion weeks this season.
Laura
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Catwalk images from Vogue.com, Backstage from Dazed Digital
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