Paris Fashion Week is drawing to a close and an emerging trend I've noticed seems to follow on from the couture silhouettes that we've seen from Jil Sander. Couture is a dying art, but it seems designers are starting to embrace the artisan and explore these 'hand-made' techniques in a RTW collection.
Again, like Jil Sander, it's couture, but not as we know it. This couture is toned down, minimal and wearable...
CELINE: ' beauty is raw...'
Texture Palette- Raw silk handwovens, raw canvas, quilting, raw fringing...
Silhouettes from Celine for SS 2011 are beginning to move away from the body- silhouettes are more oversized and flowing- still recognisably Celine for beautiful simplicity of design, but a new sense of freedom...
VERONIQUE LEROY: 'the modern pilgrim....'
THE INSPIRATION: Medieval Pilgrims of Santiago de Composela, Italy.
Leroy chose to use raw fabrics, such as jute, wide-woven linens and rough tweeds.
Designers are beginning to strip back 'fancy' fabrics, looking at the natural beauty of raw fabrics.
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Colours were kept neutral with warm tones of blush pink. There were sheer layers of black silk, paired with rough tweed skirts.
Melange knits kept this home-made, basic feel to the collection, but the sheer layers, even of linen managed to break the heavier cloths.
CHLOE- 'it's all in the detail....'
There was a much younger mood at Chloe this season.
TREND: the sheer look continues- there's no getting away from it- another take on the classic white shirt. By carefully selecting which parts to make sheer, combined with tulle layers over hems, a fresh classic is born.
Detail was key in this collection- embroidered cut-out blooms covered the chest and shoulders of a clean, elegant shirt dress. Just because a garment's white doesn't have to equal boring.
NYFW REVISITED: Alexander Wang ' A blank canvas....'
From looking at my early highlights from NYFW- Wang used white painted raw canvas in his collections in tandem with his idea of a deconstructed jacket.
Laura
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Laura
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